3D LabGang SlingBlade
01.12.18 at 03:16 #55882kpmerrillParticipant
Can you recommend a second source for a motor?03.12.18 at 20:08 #56071
Hey, Mike and KP – No I don’t have any quick ideas for nose mounted camera in the SlingBlade as of yet. As I said, if there is enough interest, I’ll design another nose section that will allow for cameras.
KP, thanks for the picture, please let us know how the rest of the project works out – I like the lights!
All the best, Don03.12.18 at 20:18 #56073
KP – I’ll look into another choice for a motor – Where are you located? Is Hobby King a good source for you?13.12.18 at 02:24 #56544jpa001Participant
+1 for the FPV Nose. Currently trying to figure out how to mount a VTx and an FPV Cam. Hope to see an FPV Nose soon.26.12.18 at 15:52 #57295Nicholas AlexanderParticipant
Just wanted to post a progress picture of my build. Still need to program the receiver and ESC, and paint a few accents, but she should maiden early next week. I have lights installed in the wing tips that should be visible in the picture.05.1.19 at 09:32 #57904Christoph AlbiezParticipant
So I printed all the parts everything but section 4 of the wings printed nicely.
At first, I tried to lower the layer height on Section 4 to 0.1mm with only mild improvement.
So I decided to split the process, go back to 0.2mm layer height and 2 perimeters for the hole section plus use a little infill (yes 10% rectangular infill) starting at 10mm height together with 3 extra top layers, yes this does result in additional weight (both left and right 14g original vs. 38g re-inforced), but now they are nice and closes and as bonus strong).
On to my real Question, in the shopping list you mention flat 1x3mm carbon which I guess is to glue into the inside of the wing (step 3) my confusion comes from step 3 saying “carbon rod” and the picture “carbon flat”, and is then further reinforced by step 15 with picture mentioning a short piece of carbon spar.
I know a detailed instruction manual is a hard piece of work, and I can understand that some things get overlooked.
So my guess I that one needs (shopping list):
4x round carbon rod 1(to 1.5mm)diameter of 58mm length
2x flat carbon rod 3x1mm of 480mm length
1x flat? 3x1mm of 90mm length
Yes, one building such a plane typically should have a certain level of knowledge of how to build a plane and improvising is not the problem but maybe these clarifications help to improve the excellent documentation further.
Christoph05.1.19 at 21:19 #57935Christoph AlbiezParticipant
update when looking at the other slingblade related posts I found Wolfangs post on orienting the section 4 of the wing differently and that works as well only with a minor drawback that the leading edge is not as clean as when printed the other way round… well compromises 🙂
Christoph06.1.19 at 02:08 #57946
Really great – thanks for the pictures and let us know how the plane turns out!
All the best, Don06.1.19 at 02:13 #57947
Hey, Christoph – sorry for the miscommunication. That area can actually use almost anything for a bit of added strength. Even a Popsicle stick will help. A carbon flat or rod, anything you might have laying around. That area see’s compression during high G turns, that’s why the added gussets are there, anything you can do to beef them up is a plus.
All the best, Don06.1.19 at 02:16 #57948
And, yes- different orientations may work at the sacrifice of edge quality. Better to print the smaller parts with a finer layer height, i.e. don’t group all of them together, or use a finer layer height for all the parts and simply have a longer print time. (But better quality!)
Keep sharing those pictures! Thanks, Guys!
All the best, Don21.1.19 at 05:48 #58410is2go4uParticipant
Printing in black is a pain the crazy glue sometimes turn the black is spots of white.21.1.19 at 05:49 #58412is2go4uParticipant
Printing the motor mount in Petg, and the motor cowl.24.1.19 at 17:56 #58541
Hey, Guys – yes I find that printing in colors is usually somewhat ruined by the CA. I print everything in white and simply spray paint/decal to suit afterwards. I also printed the motor mount in PETG, but not absolutely necessary. The motor is intended to be mounted to it’s X brace and then screwed to the motor mount. I usually install some very thin washers between the X mount and the printed part – this keeps the hot mount off the print and aids in the cooling.
Let us know how it works out for you.
All the best, Don
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