Anyone tried a Creality CR-10?

Home Forum Printing and Tech. Support 3D printers Anyone tried a Creality CR-10?

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  • #31766
    Avatarbravo7
    Participant

    One other thought – Many Creality machines bought recently have a board with a capacitor that is not correct. It causes nozzle temperature variations that affect printing. The simple check is to switch the machine on from cold, do not select any heating and watch the temperature readings. If they ar fluctuationg between several degres quickly then chances are you have got a faulty board.

    Here is a video showing the problem:

    More info here and a link to a DIY fix.

    CR-10S V2.0/V2.1 Temperature Repair

    #31824
    AvatarTravis Bailey
    Participant

    Well, I can’t see it making a *huge* difference, but I installed a .40mm E3D V6 hot end that I had laying around, and installed Capricorn bowden tubing. It’s also an S5, so I’d imagine I’m dealing with at least a little more bowden length than a regular sized 10/10S. I did the PID tune as well, temps are stable.

    Movements measure pretty accurate, or at least as far as I can tell testing casually with a 1″ dial indicator and a set of calipers. Test cubes come out pretty accurate as well. Filament has been sitting out for a few months, and I don’t yet have a scale useful for the weights we’re dealing with unfortunately so I can’t comment on under/over weights.

    The 60x120mm test cube was meant just to see what the wall quality was like on a simpler piece, and specifically to see it without a lot of movements. Basically just to see what the simple single-wall extrusion was turning out like on a scale larger than my usual 20mm cubes.

    I guess in some senses it is a fair bit different than a stock CR-10, so I may wind up being better off doing a from-scratch profile.

    Thanks for everyone’s input so far though, it will get there sooner or later..

    #31851
    kevinkevin
    Participant

    โ€ŽFound all this online i also had two of the same issues myself.

    ONE


    I think I finally figured out my under-extrusion problem. Thought Iโ€™d share in case anyone else runs into this. The filament run out sensor was causing my filament to catch and the extruder to skip. Looks like it somehow even wore away some of the sensor housing around the hole.
    Anyways, removed the sensor when I flashed the firmware. Works so much better now. (easy fix is to take it off and just insert a peace of filament inside)

    TWO

    Hello everyone, I wanted to make everyone aware of a possible problem and solution you might need regarding extrusion problems. My printer had started to chew the filament quite often, and it happend the most with PLA, I couldn’t simply finish a print. I changed the hotend and tried different cooling and retraction settings but the problem persisted. I came to the conclusion that the problem lied on the extruder, I realized the motor got very hot, almost burning fingers, and therefore the gear pushing the filament also became very hot, as a consequence it softened the filament and instead of pulling it, it started chewing it. I then proceeded to lower the vref of the extruder motor to a comfortable 0.4V ( it was at 0.7V) and I also added a heatsink with thermal paste and a 12V 40mm fan to the extruder motor, designed a fan cover to prevent the airflow going into the bed and it fixed my problem?

    THREE

    Also another big issue is extruder wear as seen in the picture.

    FOUR

    Also make shore that these screws are not tight there supposed to be slightly loose.


    Kind Regards,
    Kevin.

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 11 months ago by kevinkevin.
    #31867
    gnt2003gnt2003
    Participant

    Hi Travis,
    I can’t see that the extra Bowden length will help, it may well make matters worse! And the hotend ‘upgrade’ to my understanding is to get more heat into the filament to allow these printers to print ABS and Polycarbonate. I think the general view is the stock hot end is a really good fit for PLA and these models. I strongly recommend getting some electronic scales off ebay etc. They aren’t that expensive and tell you a great deal about what your printer is doing over the lifetime of the print. We had prints that looked really good, but they were too light. Which will translate into too flexible/not strong enough. Conversely, if your parts are all 10% heavy, you are carrying an extra 200g of PLA on something like the P-38 (instead of another battery). We let a few parts print right through after a failure, just to see what the overall weight ended up at. It’s a great diagnostic tool.

    Most of our problems were getting the plastic extruded in the right places (the walls) rather than internally during travel moves, or around retract points. But it’s good to know that you are actually extruding the right amount of filament and you just need to worry about the retract settings. The test pieces are important for getting things like your overall dimensional accuracy, nozzle temperature and retract settings dialled in. But the test pieces supplied by 3Dlabs are the place to see how it’s all coming together. A cube will need to be flawless to have any hope of printing wing parts successfully, but wing parts have the added challenge of bed adhesion/warping.

    By all means try modding g-codes and see how you go (post up the results), but I suspect with the amount of modification you have, you will need to start building a profile from scratch. Good luck! I’ve got an upgraded hot end but not installed it, maybe others can pitch it with better advice.

    #31868
    gnt2003gnt2003
    Participant

    Hi Kevin,
    I’ve never heard of a filament run-out sensor. My understanding was filament was fed out simply by the number of steps on the stepper motor and the spacing on the gear teeth? A hot extruder motor, soaking into the filament gear would certainly cause problems. Interesting, and a good argument to go for lower retract settings if possible. I’ll have to see how hot ours runs.
    Sadly, I’m not seeing your pictures ๐Ÿ™

    #31878
    Avatarbravo7
    Participant

    A good way to test for stringing that does not waste a lot of filament is this little test piece. It prints quickly and you can print lots of them until you get the settings just right.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2219103

    #31900
    kevinkevin
    Participant

    Pictures attached.

    Attachments:
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    #31924
    gnt2003gnt2003
    Participant

    +1 for the stringing tower Bravo posted. We always fire those off after changing filament, if it comes out OK, we’re going to be close. If you can’t print that really nicely, save your time and filament and give up on the 3DLabPrints parts until you can. That means going back to basics for your printer and dialling it in. There’s no shortcuts in this game.

    Thanks for the pics Kevin, I’m pretty sure we don’t have that sensor box on our CR10. Presumably it’s just a switch? That wear is amazing, I’ll check ours and see, but we’ve only got through a couple of rolls of PLA so I hope its OK still. I might line it with some brass tube.

    #32404
    AvatarTravis Bailey
    Participant

    Not a lot of time for posting, but I’ve been testing as I’ve had time. Starting from scratch seems to have been a good idea, the settings that I arrived at which gave good results were fairly far off from the other profiles shared here. I got to a point where I was getting good prints, with a near-exact weight (47.8g for a 48g part..I’ll take it). But they were ugly! Uneven perimeter walls, and lots of surface defects that I had no explanation for, most troubling were gaps in the middle of the perimeters, all in a certain location, and spent a lot of time going in circles trying to tune it out with temperatures and speeds and acceleration.

    Out of ideas, I once again threw my wallet at the problem and last night I strapped a Bondtech QR on with zip-ties and a make-shift bowden setup. Hats off to you guys who are having good luck with the stock setup, but for me, this has made a night and day difference with no other change beyond adjusting the steps/mm for the gear reduction. Stringing is improved, overhangs are much better, perimeters are strong and straight, layer change warts are smaller and smoother, no gaps anywhere..every aspect improved. Either there was something wrong with my setup, or it’s just marginal for the bowden length on the S5 (maybe both). I’ve probably got some fine tuning to do, but my next major project will be trying to get photos to attach!

    #32439
    gnt2003gnt2003
    Participant

    I’m glad it sounds like you are on the right track Travis. Perhaps not all CR-10 extruders are made equal, with dodgy stepper motor voltages, and possible issues with the guide bearings?
    I’ve just checked our extruder stepper motor and it was the hottest of the motors running at about 42C – albeit with quite fierce retract settings. There is a fair bit of wear on the feed in hole to the extruder clamp too. I checked the amount of tension in the filament, just from the stock spool and it is surprising. We will be printing out a roller bearing spool holder for sure, and the cable feed clamp and see if a freer rolling spool decreases the temp on the extruder motor. I can see that back tension on the filament would not be good for print consistency.
    We have finally fitted our PEI sheet to a piece of glass and I can tell you it’s a superb mod, even with a decidedly iffy ‘stick to glass’ (double sided 3M sheet) process that has resulted in one corner of the bed not being especially level, and two holes in it from smashing a heated nozzle into it during the bed levelling (don’t ask). Best bed adhesion we have had yet for the nosecone of the P-38 – all cannons stuck perfectly, and as long as they come unstuck when the bed cools, we will not be going back to glass and hairspray.

    #32440
    gnt2003gnt2003
    Participant

    My pics didn’t attach!

    #32449
    Avatarwarlock121
    Participant

    I am also looking at getting a cr-10s. I currently own a prusa i3 mk2s ran good for about 4 months:( im still waiting on my replacement part to be shipped my pinda sensor and the updated firmware started giving my printer issues. my I3 mk2s has been down for over 3 weeks now waiting for this part to be shipped (yes im still waiting) so far i have printed the spitfire, edge, p38, and printer started producing bad prints with the F4U corsair. i am only about 60% done with the corsair printer started making bad parts and now i cant get my corsair finished:( and i now have 4 open spools of filament and 15 more spools still sealed up. but everything has been at a stand still with this printer. waiting on this part to be shipped that still has not even been put in the mail yet. did not Think Prusa needed this long to send out replacement parts. TBH i would stay away from the prusa I3 a printer that only lasted 4 months @ 750$ is defiantly not worth it

    #32451
    Avatarbravo7
    Participant

    I have not owned the Prusa i3 Mk2 but do have a Cr-10s. If your sole reason for buying a CR-10s is because your Prusa has not been reliable and has broken down I would think again. Whilst the Cr-10s is a good printer I would doubt it is more reliable than the Prusa, also the Creality machines in my opinion require a lot more work to keep them working well. If I were you I would be making contact directly with Prusa again and asking where the parts are ๐Ÿ˜‰

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 11 months ago by Avatarbravo7.
    #450693
    Avatarandrew.bannard
    Participant

    hi Kevin,
    i have been trying for over a week to get this right and come across your settings, printed perfectly but then realised that i was working off your file the doubled the weight.

    What are the settings 1 & 2 used for and are these the settings you use for all parts

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