Anyone tried a Creality Ender 3
22.6.18 at 07:53 #34251ricardombatataParticipant
I have this printer, but in S3D i cannot a good results, someone test with this printer and have the profiles or tips?
PLA or PETG
Thanks08.7.18 at 17:35 #34980weithoParticipant
I use Ender-3…
Calibrated e-steps, marlin firmware, alu extruder, absolutly square and x axis runs perfectly, very important, because if not assambled it runs one side deeper… e-steps orig 93, my ender needs 103!
With my s3d setup good results… but with the alu extruder i have better filament feed, now overextrude… must trie with some multipliers…. s3d pla 90, with 103 steps is very good…. think with 0,94-0,96 must be good…. now i have the 1,02 with i get good results with plastic extruder…..look pics…
When my profiles good i will upload… but you must also trie with settings, because the filament you use and so on…08.7.18 at 17:42 #34982weithoParticipant
The first prints10.7.18 at 22:45 #35123troysimpsonParticipant
Yes I print PLA on the Ender 3 and the similar printer CR-10s. I use the s3d factory files that are provided but I change the extrusion to 1.09 and the retract distance to 5.5mm and that’s pretty much it. I sometimes run extra skirt lines so I can check the layer quality and do any minor level adjustments if needed.03.9.18 at 13:26 #37627
I have just started the mig BIS with Ender 3.im using cura with settings from the file at q&a category… The one if the inner structure is not printed… I’m making lots of improvements and tests every day and I will post my settings in a few days… I’m printing pla with stock firmware
03.9.18 at 13:39 #37629
- This reply was modified 2 years, 1 month ago by lambrakis. Reason: Syntax errors
Here some fotos of my tests… Any suggestions to improve my prints ?03.9.18 at 13:42 #37630
I’m sorry , for some reason I can’t upload files…..04.9.18 at 19:46 #37690
i’m sharing my final settings file for printing the MiG BIS using ”filament PM” with bar-code 8 594185640141
After many tests i think is close to quality prints and also light enough
In the following days I ll post some pictures too.04.9.18 at 19:48 #37691
In case someone want to try my settings please message me….
admins wont let me upload .settings !!!
Gosh!18.9.18 at 10:44 #52407mattijs.van.de.walleParticipant
I am working on getting the first wing piece to print not only strongly, but beautifully as well.
I really like my new ender3 and it printed better then what i was expecting for things on thingiverse…that benchie boat etc…but the thin wall stuff you need for
3d labs is quite different.
I have sliced the first right wing piece of the little spitfire with both CURA15.04.xx and the latest CURA3.4.x
I am amazed at how much settings for the slicer change the outcome!!
I really want to get 2.5mm layer height working as 3dlabs advices to go to 2mm for bad printers or printers that are in bad condition.
I do not want my ender 3 to be bad so i’m tracking down the bugs for 2.5mm and not 2mm.
I printed at 102% flow and 200% sliced with CURA15.xxxx at first. That was a flimsy piece of crap. The retraction was also optimized for a direct drive extruder.
I changed to 105% flow, changed the retraction setting for bowden tube compatibility to 5 mm and generally increased the temperature.
I kept having excesses of filament visible on the outside of the wing on some parts, but also slight under extrusions on other places of the outer wing shell.
Because there are a lot of things you can do in the newer CURA which you can’t in 15.0 to cope with several phenomenon that have to do with extrusion.
The first try was at 2.5mm, 105% flow, retraction set at 5mm, 210degr. , 70 bed, …
This was a stringy mess as for some reason it wasn’t doing extruder retractions where i thought it would do them.
This turned out to have to do with combing. I also now set the program to always do retraction once you start with the outer shell.
This last print has only been printing for 15 minutes but i can already tell that this will be a winner.
The last changes to the settings make it so that that outer shell always starts at the same point after a retraction and it goes all the way around.
It made all the difference as on all my previous slicer g codes the outer shell was always somehow following some hard random move on the ribs.
After those moves either there was a little too little or too much filament in the extruder and shell quality was deteriorating because of it.
Print time went up by 15 percent though so I made as well be printing at 2mm layer height and that might have made all the problems disappear too…who knows.
The 1WING Right of spitfire takes 5h39min to print now. Curious to see if this will be the correct setting for me and that I can start printing actual parts.
BOTTOM LINE…software does 90 percent of the printing…and if it doesn’t work, it seems to me, that it can be both solved with better hardware but also with smarter slicing.30.12.18 at 01:04 #57557siffer_kingParticipant
This guy seems to have a nice edit for ender and s-10 for the original g-codes.04.1.19 at 14:52 #57877KludgemechanicParticipant
@ mattijs.van.de.walle – I experienced some of the same things that you described on my ender 3 while printing the right wing end piece for the easymax001. I have adjusted settings to get it looking pretty good with the exception of the support structure showing on the outside of the wing. I think decreasing the retraction prime amount in Cura may fix it but I am curious if you have found a solution to that specific problem already.12.1.19 at 11:17 #58168wgilliatt91Participant
im printing mine on the ender 3, its not looking bad for my first try (few strings here and there), im using there provided gcodes and just changing the retraction settings27.1.19 at 04:09 #58625jessekilnerParticipant
I have a ender 3 and my first print came out great.. only one spot that appears to need more flowrate..12.2.19 at 22:33 #59349warlock121Participant
This is what i been doing. I get the factory file change the bed size adjust the placement. Slice it. open the gcode with notepad ++, hit search, then find, then replace tab find G1 E-0.8000 F1800 replace with G1 E-3.7000 F5000 replace all.. I do this same process with a CR-10S as well. seams to work with my ender 3 just finished printing the F-86 with the ender 3 came out good
hope this helps….
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