Anyone tried a Creality Ender 3
14.2.19 at 08:46 #59421katherina3Participant
I think we are on the same page on this regard that wealth does matter in the field of the education. A rich one can send assignment writing kids to the most expensive educational institutions and while poor students has to leave their study.14.2.19 at 12:00 #59422leigh.bennett1980Participant
Can we have abit more info please? I have the Ender 3 Pro and i’m getting supports showing through the wall. Are you not touching any other setting at all other than the retraction and retraction speed?
Here’s the support page to support what you are doing.
Retraction in our Gcodes
28.2.19 at 09:45 #60048
- This reply was modified 1 year, 4 months ago by leigh.bennett1980.
Would love to get your profiles for my ender 3 pro, but there is no PM function it seems. Best upload to google drive or so and post a link28.2.19 at 09:51 #60049
So you are taking the factory g-code files
What do you change in order to fit them to your print be size?
I will for sure try these retraction settings as for now I used the ones CNC-kitchen recommended.
Some more info would be heavily appreciated. I also bought the F-86 by the way, so maybe you could send me wing section 6 for a test on my ender 3 pro?28.2.19 at 09:56 #60050
Also, my nozzle seems to be bumping into some things on the way back to the start of the outline. I may be over-extruding, but the parts are already lighter than the recommended values. Seems very stable though. I mainly also need to get rid of some blobs of plastic that form inside the tube where the carbon bar will go. Some also on the outside of the lower wing section. Would be very cool if somebody could share a cura profile that generally works well for ender 3. I understand flow rate may have to be changed based on filament used, but I assume the rest could stay as it is.28.2.19 at 22:40 #60082
OK, I think I understand the method described by warlock121 now:
1. Open factory files in S3D.
2. Adjust bed size (or in my case it have it already configured globally in S3D)
3. Center the part in S3D
4. Save the gcode in S3D
5. Use Notepad++ to find and replace all instances of “” and replace them with “G1 E-3.7000 F5000”. Safe the file to SD (unless you use a print server like Octoprint)
6. Level bed and print.
I am about 2cm in and it looks very good. I just had to do some extrusion testing and had do change my Esteps to 94.5 to get exactly 10cm extruded.
My questions is, did is -3.700 and 5000 just empirically found, or is there some sort of retraction test file one can run to optimize it for the printer and filament? Is different retraction expected for different filaments or is it just the extruder type and Bowen tube lengths? Stefan from CNC kitchen had smaller values for his CR-10 it seems (and mentioned it could work for ender 3 also). So I tried these first and it seems I had holes and cracks and unclean spaces. I hope the Esteps help against the holes and the retraction change against the unclean spots with gunk.
Now of course I have changed 3 parameters at a time (centered in bed, other retraction values and changed Esteps), so i will not be sure what helped and what hurt. But am just not patient enough to run a test print for every single parameter changed every time. I am trying to develop a good gut feeling for the printer first.
20.4.19 at 18:53 #63888ja.pesParticipant
- This reply was modified 1 year, 4 months ago by siffer_king.
Můžete prosím poslat nastavení pro cura 4.0.0.06.5.19 at 23:13 #64831lmoraisvieiraParticipant
I have a Ender 3 Pro and CURA 3.6.0. I downloaded the 3dlabprint cura wing profile but I am having problem with stringing and a thin wing panel,
when printing a F86 wing.
Do you all have a complete CURA settings to share?
Luis Claudio08.5.19 at 22:04 #64911sandman7793Participant
I can upload a FFF profile 1 and 2 for fuselage, if anyone needs it. For Simplfy3D with Ender3, Glass bed and EZ ABL.03.6.19 at 17:23 #162920citrushundParticipant
That would be great 🙂21.6.19 at 10:09 #279105mikewm7Participant
Hello warloch 121, i wonder how do you change de g code?
Thanks25.6.19 at 00:07 #285361jrosen9Participant
I’m printing on Ender 3. Last night I downloaded the test print file for the P38. I tried running their precompiled Gcode with a few minor tweaks (added mesh bed leveling, shifted the build to the right and up on the build plate, etc). The end result was horrible. There were zits where the print head sat for several seconds, several layers of under extrusion causing layer separation, and really poor bridging. I then loaded the STL file into my Creawesome Cura 4.1 that I’ve tweaked and calibrated for my printer. I made a copy of my current profile and made some modifications based on that above linked video and the FAQ posted here. Before I left for work the current print looked great. It has finished since I was at work. Once I get home and check it out I will report back.03.7.19 at 13:53 #298482willieParticipant
Guys I use the Geeetech A10 (Ender 3 clone) and must tell you I have had all sorts of issues. On one print, the walls dont fuse properly, on the next one i set extrution higher, end then it good, but extruder simply cannot keep up! I did myself a serious favour, and upgraded to the Titan Aero, and boom!!
Perfect every single time, using either the gcode from 3DLab, or by slicing using S3D 🙂
Perfect every time!! So worth the money guys
Attachments:You must be logged in to view attached files.01.9.19 at 17:46 #673673stanford.douglasParticipant
I am printing using the Ender-3. I could not get Cura 4.2.1 to generate usable Gcode. The suggested Cura ini files are not appliacable to the current version of Cura, Cura stopped using ini files several releases back. 3Dlabprint should update those files with the current version of Cura. As it is these files are almost worthless. Except you can use Notepad++ to compare the files. Here’s the differences:
Cura_wing_fuse.ini; solid_top = False, solid_bottom = False, wall_thickness = 0.4 skirt_gap = 0
Cura_ailer-elev.ini; skirt_gap = 2, solid_bottom = True
Cura_wing_tip.ini; solid_top = True
Cura_thick.ini; solid_top = True, solid_bottom = True, wall_thickness = 0.8, skirt_gap = 2
That’s it! Skirt_gap doesn’t matter.
If you don’t have Simplify3D I found you can get pretty good prints by modifying the provided Gcode which is set up for a direct drive extruder and not a Bowden tube like the ender.
Load the Gcode into an editor like “Notepad” (I use Notepad++)do a “replace”: Like “EDGE_HA_fuselage1.gcode”
Search for; G1 E-0.8000 F1800 Replace all with; G1 E-5.5000 F1800 (there will be hundreds of them)
The G1 E-0.8000 F1800 is the retraction command, it’s retracting 0.8 mm which is not enough for the Ender-3. The E-5.5000 retracts 5.5 mm.
You may need to play with this a little, maybe 6.0 mm or so. This will eliminate most of the stringing. However, you may get some under extrusion on long travels if you retract too much.
Save the file without the .txt file extension or remove it latter. I used EDGE_HA_fuselage1-55.gcode so I could identify it.
I bit the bullet and purchased Simplify3D and all my prints are pretty much perfect now on the Ender-3
I have attached my profile. The only things that will change are the Top Solid Layers and Bottom Solid Layers in Layers.
Hope this helps01.9.19 at 17:53 #673701stanford.douglasParticipant
Try again, Creality-Ender3-0-TopBottomInfill.txt, change the .txt to .fff
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