C.U Wave Cruiser Q & A
07.11.18 at 08:03 #54659
Ok, i,ll check the published factory files. The top and bottom solid layer is used in the area of the steps to make the steps more solid. But I never had a solid layer inbetween the processes. I’ll try to replicate the problem and get back to you.07.11.18 at 19:37 #54675
I sliced the hull 5 with the published factory flie and I have no layers inbetween. The top and bottom layers in the factory file is intended. you will get more material around the deck screw hole. then in the step area I have 4 top and bollom layers to get the steps solid without holes. The only way I manage to get layers inbetween is when the start and stop printing height in the advanced tab doesnen´t match. when the first process stops at 3mm the next process should start at 3mm and so on. But if you used the published factory file it should be correct. Have a look if tere is any mismatch.07.11.18 at 22:13 #54682
a little help please07.11.18 at 22:29 #54684
sorry my screen did not refresh and I did not see your post.
Anyway our processes look the same, but our preview does not. Can I just remove the 1 bottom layer from process 30prc5perim-2-2-1-1-1? If not needed, can I simply cut it away rather than reprint?07.11.18 at 22:44 #5468908.11.18 at 11:36 #54705
Hello Gary, I wouldn’t reprint if the part looks good. You can keep it as it is, wouldn’t change the performance. But I’m curious about the factory file. Can you email me the file so I can have a look at it? ulf dot raudberget at icloud dot com
The seal should be ontop of the „ridge“ . Have a look in the user guide description. I also noted that when printing with ninjaflex there were a little shrinkage. So first attach the front and rear seal, then stretch the side seal when glueing the few mm needed.08.11.18 at 13:03 #54706
I have emailed all of the hull factory files for your reference.
I will review the manual again, clearly my mistake.
Thanks for taking the time and all of your help.
Gary12.11.18 at 14:12 #54919
Have to thank Ulf, the updated files for clearance for the rudders worked extremely well, no problem. I think if I just added support layers to the files I was going I would have been ok – a small layer of support material in the thin gaps probably would have solved the issue.
I am running into a more serious issue with Hull5 – the one rib on the hull is not connected for the entire length of the print – I can glue it, but not certain how this fault was introduced. I even increased the overlap for perimeters and it made the problem worse.
Also i have a little bit of gaps in the tight “V” section that slopes bak for the inside compartment – again I can work around this, but I have not figure out what print setting I can use to correct this.
I recently upgrade my Mk3’s firmware, and recalibrated everything including recalibrating the extrusion multiplier and linearity. I still think there could be something going on with the printer, but I am trying to eliminate everything.
Perhaps if I sent you he factory file you could take a look at it and see what I am obviously goofing up, has to be something, I printed the easy max and was able to fly (And crash) that without too much tweaking.
Thanks in advance, for all your help!
Mike13.11.18 at 12:39 #54977
Yes please send me the factory file and I’ll compare it to my original. You can put it in the Dropbox ir by email.13.11.18 at 15:33 #54983
uploaded the factory files to the hull 5 mike folder. There are two, the first one failed, the 2nd one I tweaked some settings and it was still going to fail so i stopped it.
hull 6 had the same problem but I could glue the ribs to the side.
What it looks like is the ribs are at such an angle they are not being considered part of the exterior hull, they are being sliced and printed as separate pieces. Where there is more than one perimeter they are tied together but as soon as we get to the single wall extrusions the reinforcement ribs are not attached to the hull in all cases.13.11.18 at 16:24 #54985
Also I am not cetain if my workflow is correct here – I think Simplify 3d’s way of switching printer settings leaves a lot to be desired.
Here is what I do.
I have a profile for my Prusa printer. I load up the factory files of the objects that are provided, and write down the settings for perimeters, layer heights, and start / stop printing heights.
I then select my printer profile, which of course loads all my G-code, and scripts, but overwrites all of the printing settings (Why it does this is beyond me, not like the number of perimeters in an object should depend on my printing profile but whatever) i then manually re-enter the settings like layers, number of perimeters, etc.
This is a giant pain in the but, but has worked for all the ED lab planes and most of the boat parts as well. If there is a better way of doing this i am all ears.
My printer has auto leveling and other features so I have that all as part of my profile so i don’t have to add them every time.
Mike14.11.18 at 08:06 #55012
I will have a look at the factory files tonight.
In general all inernal structure is separated with a small gap to make the outer skin printed without interruption. You can see this also for the labprint planes.
I suppose when the structure don’t fuse to the outer skin it could be a sign of under extrusion.14.11.18 at 21:25 #55035
I have checked your factory files. I have 0,95 for extrusion multiplier and you have 0,9 so you have less material flow than me. But of coarse the material can make s difference. I suggest you try to tweek the extrusion to get the structure to fuse. I didn’t see anything else that would make a difference.14.11.18 at 21:32 #55036
About the workflow, I use the LP factory files and change all settings to my craftbot. It’s the other way around but it’s still a pain. There’s a 4.1 version out now, hopefully there’s improvement of this.14.11.18 at 22:00 #55043
I’ll try the extrusion setting. I calibrated the extrusion multiplier by printing out a calibration cube with .45 walls as a spiral vase, as suggested by a Prusa article with the extrusion multiplier set to 1. I then measured several places on the cube and got .5 to .51 thick walls or so. .45/.5 = .9, so that “should” be the extrusion multiplier.
I definitely used a higher extrusion multiplier for those planes, but I did not actually check the setting then. So I can revert back to more extrusion and give it a go.
I think the problem, potentially between the boat and the planes, is the ribs / reinforcement in the planes is nearly always perpendicular to the thin wall of the skin. Also, in the parts I am holding in my hand at the moment from my easymax, the inside rib is double walled, allowing the printer to come along and do the outer wall, loop in and do the rib and loop back out to continue the wall, all as one continuous extrusion.
In fact, whenI had 2 perimeters, such as on the bas and top, all of the ribs were printed properly. I guess sine I am having a tricky time with this part I cold add extrusion, and if that does not work, set it for two perimeters all the way up.
Please don’t read any of that as criticism – the boat is pretty awesome, I’ll eventually get it figured out, and thank you so much for your help thus far – very much appreciated!
Right now I am going to get some gears and bearing ready to go 🙂
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