C.U Wave Cruiser Q & A
Tagged: Motor setup
01.2.19 at 09:34 #58781
Check that the screw securing the rear propeller is not too long. Could be the problem.
Ulf01.2.19 at 13:24 #58787
Yeah Gary the screw should pull the two props together In fact I had to adjust the htness of the screw and loosen it a little bit to let the props spin easier and have less friction.
The parts failing could be a couple of things, are you using the recommended temps for those parts? Higher temps is what you will want, since it will melt together better.
That being said, Ulf, in theory if the shaft was printed horizontally it would be stronger do to the layout of the layers, though it would be harder to get a good finished and balanced shaft that way if you had to use supports.
Mike02.2.19 at 15:42 #58845
I’ll check the screw length, but I’m fairly certain it is the recommended length M4x16, and if I was not clear in my description, it appears that the entire shaft is moving backwards separating the two propellers.
As for the printing Mike, I was using the provided factory files, changing only the retraction setting for my CR-10 mini as the provided settings printed horribly, everything else remained unchanged.
I will re-check, re-test and report back02.2.19 at 16:25 #5884603.2.19 at 11:21 #58898
What you show in the video is not intended. The shaft should not be able to move forward or rearward. It rests on the bearing in the propeller hub and the rear propeller is keeping the complete system tight. I’ll post some pictures to verify how it should look like.03.2.19 at 11:35 #58899
Shaft in rearmost position. It should stick out 6mm, not more.The depth of the screw hole in the shaft should be 15mm. Verify that the rear propeller goes 6mm onto the shaft . Check that the bearing in the propeller hub is flush to the connecting surface to the hull.03.2.19 at 11:42 #58903
Propeller hub with bearing. Should be flush fit, not deeper.
Rear propeller on shaft. Should stick 6mm onto the shaft. No play in axial direction when fixed with the screw.03.2.19 at 15:33 #58910
So I went back and was able to removed the play, then I performed a throttle up test and the propellers and gears blew apart! One step forward and two steps back, again!!
Polycarbonate is much stronger than PLA, so I’m not sure how to proceed with this build. Why I thought this would be simpler than the planes, I have no idea.
I’m open to suggestions, or a refund at this point.03.2.19 at 16:25 #58916
I didn’t print much in PC but it’s definitely stronger, more brittle though. I’ll print a grarset for you and send it to you if you give me your address. You came so far now, I’d really would like to see your boat running. You have my email.27.2.19 at 00:28 #59980
Thank you again for all of your support and guidance, see my now completed project.
I tried to capture that old wooden boat feel with Chocolate PLA by WYZworks and Translucent by Zyltech.
Also see my motor run up. I think she is ready for spring!
27.2.19 at 00:31 #59986
- This reply was modified 5 months, 4 weeks ago by santaniellog.
Video is in the dropbox folder https://www.dropbox.com/home/labgang_forum/Gary_gear_test09.4.19 at 22:15 #62929
My hull is definitely not water tight, other than acrylic what else can I use to seal it?
Thanks10.4.19 at 07:02 #62935
It might be effective to use Capt. Tolleys creeping crack cure. It’s a sealant thinner than water using capillar action to seal. Didn’t try it myself but it could be effective.
Great video! Good speed!
Ulf07.5.19 at 08:12 #64835
Congratulations to this great project Ulf.
The print was easy except part top_cover_1_v_2:
Which parameter can I change so that the gaps at the top are gone (see picture).
How can I seal the entire hull? I thought of something transparent (paint?) ?
(For very small gaps I take Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure.)
08.5.19 at 08:53 #64886
- This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by fchansa.
To close the gaps in the prints I suggest to reduce speed, a little more material flow and maybe a little cooling.
I used acrylic paint. Works good except for larger gaps. I also tried xtc3d, an epoxi resin. But it’s expensive and I still got leakage. To evacuate the water inside the hull i drilled a small hole at the tip in front. I found the leakage by blowing air in this hole and spray water on the hull. Bubbles show the leakage. Sanded and painted the area again and problem solved. I never tried captain tolleys creeping cure myself but I suppose it would work.
- This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by Ulf Raudberget.
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