C.U Wave Cruiser Q & A
Tagged: Internal structure gap to shell
18.6.19 at 00:23 #272058
Hi I am trying to print on my Prusa MK3S using Prusa Slicer and STL files. Hull 1 came out fine. Hull_2_V2 will not slice correctly. Basically there is nothing inside of the inside and outside walls. No internal bracing and no alignment holes. Any suggestions Perimeters=2 and no solid top or bottom layers. 0% infill.18.6.19 at 06:44 #272800
I’ll try to download prusa slicer and see if i can figure something out.
Ulf18.6.19 at 14:44 #273437
Thanks Ulf I have tried everything. The people over at Prusa think the interior walls are too thin to detect. There is a thin wall detection switch and I tried it but no luck getting it to see them.18.6.19 at 17:52 #273663
I can separate the inner structure and import inner and outer surfaces separately. Prusa would then slice correctly. But I don’t know how to make variable settings. In the area of the steps, you need 4 top and bottom layers. Otherwise ther will be large holes..
Do you know how to do this?18.6.19 at 17:55 #273669
Image of prusa slicer with separate inner and outer surfaces.18.6.19 at 18:07 #273691
Attached is a photo of the STL in Prusa which shows that the inner structure does not connect with the outer and inner walls. I know how to fix the steps.18.6.19 at 18:07 #273693
Also no image in your last post.18.6.19 at 18:46 #273740
The image was just to show the slice with internal structure.
The gap is intentional to make the outer perimeters print without interruption. I see though that prusa would make a gap where S3d doesn’t. 2 perimeters could work in that case.
I see it’s possible to split the model to objects. Prusa would then slice the inner structure but it moves some structure to the plate. If there’s a setting to prevent this then you could get the inner structure to slice. Do you know if that’s possible?18.6.19 at 21:05 #273902
I normally was using 2 perimeters. But I tried enough perimeters to almost close up the end, but still did not print the inner structure. I understand what you mean about splitting the model and I have tried it but id did not work. When I slice just the inner structure by removing the outer structure The pin pockets are disconnected. I don’t know what else to try. I need different STL files for the hulls and I understand how much work is involved. I may need more as I have not printed anything else yet. Or a refund since I cannot get it to print. Thanks19.6.19 at 06:44 #274744
I’ll make a test print with the divided hull tonight and see how it prints. Would you consider another slicer? Cura or mattercontrol would work (3dlabprint mention them in their print guides). Would be an option if you like to print other labgang/labprint models.19.6.19 at 20:57 #275877
The test print didn’t turn out good. Inner structure underextrusion. To make it work the thickness of the inner would have to increase. Too much work.
Made test with cura. Slicees good. Would that be an option for you?20.6.19 at 07:01 #276782
Maybe have found a solution. I’ll make a test tonight.20.6.19 at 15:42 #27749820.6.19 at 15:46 #277504
Prusa / Slic3r are sensitive to surface normals. So I flipped all surface normals needed on all thin wall models. I´ll have 3dlabprint to update the downloads. But it takes normally a little time. If you want the stls right away please send an e-mail to ulf.raudberget at icloud dot com and I´ll give you access to my labgang dropbox.
Ulf18.7.19 at 14:55 #427612
I’m making a list of the parts I need to buy i and in the guide there is the Turningy AeroDrive 5055 430 which is 5S-8S.
You recommend using 3S or 4S batteries.
Is this correct?
I saw one comment of someone who tried this setup in the canal but it wasn’t successful (talking about speed, probably cog).
Jean talked about using an other motor (850/900kv) with a 2S battery, but I couldn’t find the final answer.
So my question is, which motor or calculation should i use for this model.
Thanks in advance.
Looking forward to print (and sail) this boat 🙂
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