Corsair – how to print that folding wing mechanism??

Home Forum Printing and Tech. Support Printing planes Corsair – how to print that folding wing mechanism??

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  • #52032
    AvatarLaurent
    Participant

    I have been trying with no success to print the wing section 3A, 3B, 4A, 4B. It seems that no matter what parameter change, it just doesn’t fit!
    Anybody had a good tip to share to print those?

    My setup:
    printer CR-10
    slicer: simplify3d
    material: PLA (tried 3dMars and Solutech)

    printing parameters:
    Nozzle Diameter 0.4
    Extrusion Multiplier 1.02
    Extrusion Width 0.42
    Retraction distance 4.7
    Extra restart distance 0.25
    Retraction vertical lift 0
    Retraction speed 30
    Coasting distance 0.2
    Wipe distance 2
    primary layer height 0.25
    top solid layers 3
    Bottom solid layers 0
    Outline/Perimeter shell 2
    outline direction inside-out
    First layer height 90%
    First layer width 108%
    First Layer Speed 50%
    Start Point Choose start point closest to specific location (200,-100)
    use Skirt/Rim yes
    skirt extruder Primary
    skirt layers 1
    Skirt offset from parts 1.4
    skirt outlines 1
    use raft no
    use prime pillar no
    use ooze shield no
    0% 0%
    support infill percentage no
    Extruder 230
    heated bed 56
    fan speed 0
    default printing 60
    outline underspeed 70%
    Solid infill underspeed 80%
    Support structure underspeed 80%
    X/Y axis movement speed 130.00
    Z axis movement speed 16.70

    #52036
    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    I had to sand it to make it fit. Rather do that than underextruding. These joints have to hold.

    #52042
    Bernd1000Bernd1000
    Participant

    Yes , and thats the reason the designer constructed, it like that, it has not to fit !!!!! you have to sand.. Then we go back in ancient times and take a hammer to repair.each printer is different and when something dosnt fit its a question of flowrate and settings.my JG A5 prints very well with a flowrate of 0,9. Print a ruderhorn and measure the hole for the pushrod .You will be astonished when its filled up, with no funktion.

    #52048
    AvatarLaurent
    Participant

    Thank you for your replies – that seems to be a lot of sanding. I have been using a file to remove the excess material, but I suppose I didn’t remove enough, as it still doesn’t fit. I am left with a large mechanical interference even after sanding
    On the set of prints that came out with the best quality, the width of the grooves is between 4.4mm and 5.2mm (depending on where the measurement is made), while the male counterpart is around 5.2 to 5.4mm… to make it fit, I will have to sand away ~0.5mm, which is basically a full wall thickness. The part is printed with double walls, but still, that seems a lot. The part would actually be stronger if the sanding was minimized to the minimum…

    How much sanding did you have to do to make it fit?
    I will try to print again with a reduced extrusion multiplier and hope for the best!

    #52050
    AvatarLaurent
    Participant

    I just check the STL – the small “grooves” are 5.25mm wide and the “teeth” are 4.6mm. A properly printed model should fit without sanding, or just to remove the few zit and blobs that may be there after printing. I shouldn’t have a full mechanical interference as I see here… back to figuring out what is wrong with my printing parameters…

    #52063
    Avatarmartin.hammond
    Participant

    Have you tried
    Extrusion Multiplier 1.00
    Extrusion Width 0.40

    #52078
    AvatarLaurent
    Participant

    Thank you for this tip – Reducing the extrusion multiplier seems like a good idea as it will reduce the thickness of the wall, right?
    I am not sure how Simplify3d uses the extrusion width? is it calculate the X/Y positions of the walls?

    Anyway, I will give it a shot, thanks.

    #52090
    Bernd1000Bernd1000
    Participant

    as long you reduce a flowrate to a value ,that there is not to much overpressure in the noozle, the wall thickness will not change.That means, if u have the correct flowrate the increasing of the widht e.g from 0,40 to 0,41 will also happen. You can measure that directly with a caliper.if you have overpressure in the nozzle the wall thickness will remain until the correct flowrate. Also the recommended temp of 230 was to high for me.The noozle was anytime oozing due to the remaining pressure, which is always in the system .15 degrees lower, stopped that oozing with the correct flowrate.There are no doubts about the strength of the parts.
    Bernd

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by Bernd1000Bernd1000.
    #52092
    Bernd1000Bernd1000
    Participant

    This is only a note ! Maybe it points u in the right direction to good printed parts.

    #52107
    AvatarLaurent
    Participant

    Thank you for the help and all the pointers!

    temperature:
    I reduced the temperature from 230 to 219, and the oozing reduced drastically, as well as the formation of blobs at the surface of the parts.

    Extrusion Multiplier / width
    I used .95 as a multiplier and .40 for the width. the dimensions are now much closer to what they should be.

    interestingly, the very same gcode worked ok with 3D Mars PLA filament, and not at all with PLA from 3d Solutech (very poor layer bonding, and eventually, the filament broke at the extruder stepper motor). So I guess all these parameters are very filament dependent…

    #52141
    AvatarLaurent
    Participant

    I want to amend my previous post: the reason it didn’t print with the other roll from 3d Solutech is simple – it wasn’t PLA, it was ABS… my mistake

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