CR10 Finally Getting Amazing Results, had to use 185 temp

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    AvatarAlex T

    CR10 Finally Getting Amazing Results, had to use 185 temp to reduce stringing, EVEN with retraction


    What slicer are you using, if you don’t mind me asking.


    Hello Alex, do you mind sharing your settings? I have the CR10 as well and will be trying to get my printer up and running for airplanes. Do you use CURA or simplify3d?

    AvatarAlex T


    AvatarAlex T

    when you are ready let me know, I can send screen shots maybe the files

    I might do some more adjustments, also this is the PLA I used,
    ‘HATCHBOX 3D PLA-1KG1.75-CG6C PLA 3D Printer Filament
    you might get different results if you use different PLA, got this from amazon

    heads up, my printer settings take about 4 TIMES longer


    Alex, finally got simplify3d. Finally getting better bed adhesions. Still stringing but I hope the stringing doesn’t ruin it. Any information, tips, and tricks you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you

    AvatarAlex T

    I am getting much better results printing one piece at a time, also less chance of failure
    but takes take more time to setup

    regarding the bed, the bed MUST be level and I like using glue stick.
    to level, I like to set a skirt, print pause, level with 2 sheets of paper, print, relevel with 1 sheet, My level has been working amazing for several weeks, not changes needed

    for the CR10, my last few prints were not stringy but they are too brittle on the think wall areas, I think 185 has a lot to do with this, however, I am epoxy coating to prevent heat warping .

    VERY important, orientation matters. I like to have my retractions marks start in the same position so its easier to clean up by sanding. I was getting no zits, but my prints were weak. now I have small zits where it retracts. I can adjust to get rid of this ,but I risk having holes or weak spots, I might adjust to a little to get this down better

    AvatarAlex T

    Nozzle .4
    Extrustion Mult. .9

    Extra Restart 0 (I might go back to a negative value to reduce zits)
    Vertical Lift. .08
    Retraction Speed 1800, was using 3600 before(will keep testing)
    Coasting .2
    Wipe 2

    Layer Hight .2
    First Layer hight 90%
    First Layer Width 100%
    First Layer Speed 30%

    Start Points (CRITICAL)
    .0 X 150 Y, allign objects so the retraction is in an
    area that won’t be as critical, ex bottom of the piece

    Skirt, 2, layers
    Offset 15
    Outlines 2,

    I like using the skirts with a BIG boarder to check
    the bed leveling, almost me to pause and adjust bed IF
    needed before a the part is printed

    Bed Temp
    layer 1 60
    layer 10 45
    layer 25 30
    not sure if this is good for thin wall printing
    60 the entire way might be better, for other CR10 prints
    I like this setting

    Nozzle Temp
    1 layer, 210
    2 layer 200
    5 layer 195
    10 layer 190
    25 layer 185
    I think 185 is making my thin walls too brittle, but
    I am getting less strings, I am epoxy resin coating the parts so they are stronger

    0 first layer
    3 layer 30%
    layer 5 100%, I think this is against the manual for thin walls
    I will test lower fan speeds

    print speed 1500 MM/MIN (VERY SLOW)
    XY 3500 Speed (faster might reduce stringing but lead to other issues)
    Z speed 5500
    filament diameter 1.75

    Ooze control, CHECK perform retraction during wipe

    AvatarAlex T

    to clean the bed, I use a RAZOR scrapper (remove parts and stick glue), simply green cleaner, then spray with water, then apply rubber alcohol
    dry, then apply stick glue


    185C is not going to work. Layering bonding at 185 is AWFUL. If you put that plane up in the air it would likely come apart mid-fight. You need to be at 225C, if not 230C to get an airworthy plane.

    I don’t have a CR-10 so I can’t help tremendously with your issue, but my intuition is that the hotend is the problem. If you’re using 6mm retraction at 1800mm/s, that’s more than enough. I don’t usually go above 5mm.

    Realize that PLA is outside of its recommended printing range at 230C. It will string A LOT without a high quality hotend because it runs like water at 230C. Consider (1) checking your extruder and calibrating it if necessary and (2) upgrading the CR-10 to an E3D V6. That’s the hotend that comes on the Prusa Mk2 and it works well for making planes.


    Alex, thank you. I will give those settings a shot and give you an update on how it’s working on my own printer. I think I’d agree with the printing single parts at a time. I’ve had 2 failed prints now due to bed adhesion. They would all look perfect if it weren’t for the stringing. Then sometime in the night 1 or 2 parts would lift and be a little warped at one end.

    I’ve managed to get 2 parts of the right wing that I think will work. I was using the gcodes they supplied but changing some settings on the printer itself. I think if I added better bed adhesion I would have had a decent, but not perfect print. Changing the bed temp to 60 and print temp to 195. Slow speed to 40 for about an hour then pause and speed up to 60. I had a couple over extruded spots in the slow speed and not so many on the rest of the walls. Still a decent amount of stringing on the inside though. Strength seems to be good. Hopefully doesn’t take too much longer to get it printing the plane decently.

    Thank you again. I will let you know my findings. Good luck and I’ll try to check in sometime Monday or Tuesday.

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 7 months ago by AvatarJameslitts115.

    Did you add any extra extrusion multiplier? My printer is tuned perfect and I get correct sized layers and width but I notice 3dlabprint multiplier is set above 1.0.


    Trying some settings with Cura and so far looking pretty good aside from some zits on the outer layer. Will post the results and settings if it’s a success. I have a feeling that it will be as long as it doesn’t lift off the bed.

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by AvatarJameslitts115.
    AvatarAlex T

    yes the bonding at 185 (thin wall is terrible) epoxy resin will help alot but I need to balance less stringing with better bonding.

    ” CR-10 to an E3D V6″ Thank you, I will look into this

    AvatarAlex T

    reprinting a wing section, 15 hours with my settings 🙂

    200 Temp, no fan, one piece at a time
    the last print failed, I think printing 2 big pieces with a thin wall gets tricky

    so far looks good, no crazy strings, will post an update by tomorrow

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