CR10 PROFILE

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  • #33346
    Avatarguilherme_vazan
    Participant

    Someone got a good quality with the model airplanes that has a heart to make available the used profile for kindness.

    #33940
    Avatarjon.foster
    Participant

    I’d like to see if anyone has a profile created in Cura or S3D as well. We use so many profiles for the different things we print on our CR-10 printers it would be nice to find one to use as a starting point.

    Jon.

    #54533
    Avatarkpmerrill
    Participant

    I am close on CR10S with S3D profile. Need some help. Is anyone else trying CR10S and would like to share back and forth to get settings tweaked?

    #59354
    Avatarwarlock121
    Participant

    I been using my CR-10S for quite some time printing 3dlabprint planes. I also use this trick for my ender 3 as well.. slice it with S3D the factory file. open gcode with notepad ++, hit search, then find and replace find G1 E-0.8000 F1800 and replace it with G1 E-3.7000 F5000 hit replace all, then load it in printer….
    This is not my fix i found the post here that told me to do this but i dont know where it is anymore the post to give credit. but i have had no issues so far with this trick. not sure if it works with TPU yet or not.

    #62255
    Avatarmraich009
    Blocked

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    #62947
    Avatarventoyzas29
    Participant

    i use cr-10 and s3d for a long time with no problem…..
    as all the printers need deferend tuning i give a start point for a good print
    you can use the s3d factory files you open it and then you must change
    Retraction Distance from 0.8 to 5.8mm
    retraction speed from 30 to 60 mm
    this is the most crusial part you mast change now the temperature is up to you and the layer height
    just you mast know the cr-10 step motors they have 0.04 mm per step sho the 0.25mm layer height is not good..
    for big parts i change it to 0.26 and for smaller one i use 2.4
    maybe you going to need a litle more extra restart distance u can start from the factory 0.12 and if you see gaps in the prints you must increase it…. i use 0.18 in my printer ….
    as i say this is a starting point still maybe you need somthing more all the cr-10 are not the same…… if you have any other problem post the problem i can give a advice if i can……
    greatings from greece

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 9 months ago by Avatarventoyzas29.
    #62953
    Avatarventoyzas29
    Participant

    and here are some of my prints

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 9 months ago by Avatarventoyzas29.
    #1080648
    Avatarasd9000
    Participant

    I am having a bit of issues with the prints making a cross pattern as it prints. It is making a U on the internal supports but not joining on the outer skin. I know its got to be a slicer issue. I have simplify3d and have followed a bunch of settings and prints are coming out great in my testing phase. Ignore the .4 layer height with my .8 nozzle I have switched back to .4 just wanted to see the weight difference.

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    #1080782
    Avatarasd9000
    Participant

    I got it figured out looks like the extra restart distance.

    #1431341
    Avatareffy1975
    Participant

    hi
    it will be great if you could post your cr10 profile settings

    #1445683
    Avatarchris.tate73
    Participant

    I’ve been playing around with this for 3 days on my CR-10 v2 printing in PLA. After trying every possible combination of settings under the sun I think I’ve found the solution. The S3D settings in the factory files are perfect with a couple of exceptions:

    1) Slow the printing speed down to 2,000 mm/min – make sure to do this on both processes: the 2 perimeter process which is used for the 1st mm vertical height of the print; and the 1 perimeter process with is used for the rest of the print. When slicing, be sure to use both processes in S3D.

    2) Increase the retraction distance to 5mm. Anything lower than that results in stringing. Again make sure to make this change on both processes.

    Making these 2 changes worked for me.

    #1445710
    Avatarchris.tate73
    Participant

    Also, I forgot to mention that I lowered the print temperature on both processes to 220 from 230. 220 was the maximum temp for the PLA I was using. The resulting print quality is now excellent.

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