Vought F4U Corsair 1/12 ACES AIr-Combat
23.10.18 at 20:25 #54173Roland BennerParticipant
ich bin sehr begeistert von der neuen Corsair, tolle Idee mit den Kohlestäbchen als Rumpfverbinder usw..
Was mir allerdings überhaupt nicht gefällt ist das Heck aus Plastikplatten.
Warum willst Du das Heck nicht drucken? habe ich etwas übersehen?
Grüße Roland07.11.18 at 14:38 #54669Patrays1Participant
My problem is simple. Not one of the G-codes for fuselage works. Most have only the base plate and not any more. The base plates are 1 mm thick. Generating G-codes by Prusa results in no internal 1mm carbon fiber rod guides. Am only able to print flat parts. Tried Down loading three times with no change
Ray06.12.18 at 17:17 #56210
Is the checker board pattern on the bottom of the wing supposed to be a support that goes all the way through or should that just be on the bottom skin of the wing? I used the S3D files and they came out only on the bottom surface of the wing.06.12.18 at 17:19 #56211
Also is PETG ok for the wing or is it too flexible?07.12.18 at 19:23 #56263
Ok I found my answers so for anyone asking the same questions: 1. No the pattern on the bottom of the wing should not extend to the top of the wing as supports. (I found some of the pics posted by the designer where the wing was clear enough to see through and verify this was not the case). 2. PETG does appear to be too flexible for the wing. When I tried printing it in PETG the first few layers wing former easily broke off of the wing. When I printed it in PLA+ it was much more solid.12.12.18 at 06:05 #56497
Ok back with some more information for all you makers out there building this plane. I really like the way this plane uses thin carbon rods to align the wing parts. At 1mm diameter they are far too small to really lend anything in terms of support but they really help alignment a lot…so much so I would strongly suggest that 3DLabPrint stop using tabs for aligning wing parts and start using short carbon pegs.
Before assembling though make sure to block sand the top end of the wing pieces. The top edge ends up with small bumps on it that prevent the pieces from joining smoothly. A quick block sanding should fix this issue.25.12.18 at 21:31 #57252
Another thing I recently figured out…at least when printing with PLA+…the control surfaces need cooling to print properly. I tried various temps to try and clean up the print but the skin surface always came out pretty bad and the curved end on elevator2 ends up melted looking. After adding cooling while printing the prints came out very nice. I suspect I might need to slow down the print a bit as well but for now the cooling seems to have done the trick.26.12.18 at 22:05 #57320rene.bruening96Participant
I have a problem with the Corsair. In the factory files the File “wing_L4” for example has a big hole in the shell. I guess its becouse the extrusion width is set to auto. But even if i put that extrusion width to manual i would need to put 0,3 in there so that there is no hole in the wall. That cant be normal i guess.
How did you guys do this?29.12.18 at 02:22 #57490
I ran into a similar issue with the wing part where the servo mounts…there was a section missing around the servo. Turns out it was just a bad slice. I reloaded the part into S3D, put my settings in, then resliced it and the problem went away.19.1.19 at 01:33 #58347
Ran into a new issue…the main wing support parts won’t print properly. Every time I’ve tried to print them they warp. I find I get a lot less warp when I use cooling on the part but still get warp. The odd thing is the part stays stuck firmly to the bed and is not warped until I remove the part from the bed…then it warps.19.1.19 at 19:01 #58378
Ok finally got it to print right. The factory files that came with the model has 3 different infills on this part. I think this was creating the loaded spring effect and allowing it to warp after removal from the printer. I changed the infill to the same at all 3 levels and the part warped away from the bed. Since this particular part is not thin wall like the rest of the model I changed the heat bed to stay on the whole time instead of turning off after 4mm and then the parts stayed stuck and are now perfectly flat after removing them from the printer!05.2.19 at 22:03 #59000
Just finished assembling the tail section last night. I suggest anyone building this model to use the coroplast option instead of the printed option and move the control horn back. On the printed version the control horn is in my opinion just a bit too close to the end of the fuselage where the control wire comes out. Downward travel is a bit limited due to this. Also I would suggest getting some thick music wire or something metal to make the U bracket to join the 2 sides of the elevator. The printed bracket flexes just a bit too much.28.2.19 at 08:11 #6003903.3.19 at 10:37 #60206mthannerParticipant
A short update from side.
I am printing the plane on an anet A8 using the provided gcode. Sofar I have printed the fuse and some wing parts.
The prints are looking really good.
We‘ll see how it goes further.19.3.19 at 17:20 #61926
Update on my build…Printing the connecting piece in PETG for the left and right elevator was a mistake. There was much too much flex and the right side elevator would barely move. I removed the elevator, dug out all of the fabric hinge that I could, and removed the PETG connector. I then cut a new connecting piece out of 1/16″ thick carbon fiber and replaced the hinge material with nylon hinges. The elevator moves great now! I am concerned I may not get enough servo throw but I won’t know that until we fly it. I think I can get enough for the +/- 7mm but I’m thinking that isn’t going to be enough throw.
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