Your Printer Setting
28.10.18 at 16:26 #54348
@bernd : I’m so sorry for the hieroglyphs It’ was the first idea, to share my setting once discovered that the file upland doesn’t work. I’ll use a cloud services if needed in the future.
@wpmcnamara : I use S3D and with my “CR-10s” and I have start with the given factory files, but I don’t achieved good results. Probably it’s was depended for the fact that the printer was not well configured and calibrated.
Now I have understand little bit more about 3Dprinting, my CR-10s is well calibrated, I hope ;-), and after many failed tests I have find a good fff file for PLA and use it for printing, with the consequence to do not take into account anymore the given factory fff files.
Now I have also another printer, an ANYCUBIC Kossel Liner Plus, that I have calibrated and configure to print PETG. Your indication about the usage of the setting are probably the key to achieve the good results.
Based on the fact that most of the setting are strictly related to the specific own printer, the mail points to consider are the following :
1) Layer tab of S3D : verify for each prints the factory fff setting for this section and use it as reference
2) Advanced tab of S3D : verify for each prints the factory fff setting for this section and use it as reference
do you agree?
Max29.10.18 at 11:30 #54384
I generally go the other way around — starting with the factory file from 3DLabPrint and modify it with the parameters for my printer. The extruder tab is the primary location of changes and may be different for every printer and filament. Of secondary importance are changes under the advanced, and temperature tab.26.3.19 at 02:04 #62204
Did anyone come up with a solution for the internal structure coming through the outer layer? I saw three people had the same issue. I’m using a Geeetech A10 which is a copy of the ender3 also using cura.07.5.19 at 17:12 #64860
I have an Ender 3 Pro and working with CURA 3.6.0. The idea is to print a full F86 Sabre.
Started tests with a lot of messing parts, with so much stringing inside the wing rib when printing
a wing part.
Now I updated my CURA with your settings, and unbelievably no more ANY stringing! But the printing process
doubled the time: it was 4 hours and now 9.
I´ll wait for it finish prints and post the result picture.
I can say it´s a progress, even the time printing increases a lot…
In the next test I can increase the speed, what do you think?
Luis20.5.19 at 07:53 #65305
an apologies if this is the wrong thread – I did search the forum before posting.
I have bought an anycubic chiron since I wanted a larger build space than my old makerbot 2x clone. The first parts of the PZL-11 looked usable (I started with s3d´s settings and modified according the PZL-11 userguide): There were some tiny holes, a slight elephant foot (due to the very high bed temperature I chose for these tries), quite some stringing on the inside of the parts, but overall stability seemed ok (recommended PLA, 220 degrees, bed 90, pic attached) and the parts fitted nicely.
Now, with the 5th fuselage part, the print literally falls apart after 25-30 layers. I tried to
– vary the temperature
– reduced retraction or switched it off
– reduced printing speed down to 35%
– enlarged the extrusion multiplier up to 1.25
Any further ideas how I could modify the settings?
Attachments:You must be logged in to view attached files.20.5.19 at 07:55 #65307
The other image didn´t upload for some reason:20.5.19 at 10:51 #65309
OK, sorry, my fault – only after trying the supplied gcode I understood I should have printed this part with 9% infill. Always read the docs twice …03.6.19 at 06:16 #153251
At the time of working with a printer, it is predictable that you may bump into paper jam error often. Sometimes, it is easy to take out the jammed paper, but it will become more difficult when we didn’t know the exact location where the paper is stuck in the printer. Make sure to avoid the pulling stuck paper out from the front cover if possible, as at times it may lead to damage the printer. Instead, you can try pulling it from the backside of printer. You can also take Epson Phone Support and make contact with deft engineers to fix paper jam error in Epson printer.
04.6.19 at 19:10 #181531
- This reply was modified 3 months, 3 weeks ago by richardherry01.
Maybe my post belongs here?
I’m new at printing and just pick up the Alfawise U20 using cura 4.0, maybe I’m not using the search the correct way, can’t find what I’m looking for, who is using the Alfawise U20 with cura 4.0 or cura if that helps?
Anyways I want to build the Cessna 150, what setting do I need?
Thank you.13.6.19 at 22:26 #258987
I printed this piece on the anet a8 and all other prints went well except for this print I don’t know what happened as the top didn’t print correct and it was 2 cm too short any help would be appreciated!!! Also what’s the best layer height for my printer with S3D .thank you. Edit-it is the edge 540(the small one) vertical stabiliser.
- This reply was modified 3 months, 1 week ago by melet12345678.
Attachments:You must be logged in to view attached files.22.6.19 at 17:36 #281456
I just bought the F-86 and have been printing for the last week on my Prusa MK3S with MMU2. I manually edit the GCODE to include a Tx line just after setting the bed temperature (This prompts for the filament selection), and then replace the T0 line just before the ;skirt with Tc to set the right tool head for the filament selected.
Initially, I was using the stock GCODE, and printed about half of the fuselage. I wasn’t entirely happy with the result… it just needed some cooling fan.
To compensate for layer adhesion, I tried bumping the temperature up to 240C, with 80% on the fan. I also decided to print with a .15 layer height using PLA+
So far, the results have been excellent with the following changes from the S3D factory files:
Extra Restart Distance 0.02
Primary Layer Height .15
I am using a skirt with 3 Outlines
Fan Speed: Layer 1 0%, Layer 2 80%
Force Retraction Between Layers checked
Perform Retraction During Wipe Movement checked
I also use supports if needed from the build plate. For example, Fuselage2 benefits from supports for the nose gear retract mount area.
I do get some random filament hairs, but a light sanding gets rid of them easily.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.