Forum Replies Created
26.8.20 at 14:14 in reply to: Heat creep to cold block with PETG. PLA prints gr8! #1418633
Just a heads up do not expect any real help here luckily I just happened to take a look (I log in every couple of months) checking my posts hope someone may have answered my questions since I joined I have gotten very little help. Example this forum has been broken since it was started in 2017, you are unable to use the search function the forum is built on. The owners who are the experts rarely answer any posts or emails they just like collecting the money. When asking about a printing issue It would help to know what brand printer you have, extruder, type of build surface and what type of hot end you are using and which filament you are using
I use a real air cooled full metal E3D V6 hot end on a Prusa MK3 and a clone full metal E3D V6 hot end on a heavily modded CR10 both are not enclosed and both are perfectly tuned mechanically along with tuned slicer both print flawless PLA thin wall and PETG. They also have been used in a room temperatures around 90 degrees F
Now to answer your question which I have experience with.
1) I would not print PLA or PETG in a enclosed heated environment there are no positive results you will get from that setup. Enclosed heated printing is only for filaments that require it example ABS. Note: If you can print ABS well enclosed without warping you should print these planes in ABS they will be lighter, stronger and wont melt in the sun.
2) heat creep on my cold block even with a PTFE liner check your retraction it may be to much remove the throat add some thermal paste and make sure the fan is properly cooling the heat sink. Note I use full metal titanium throats with thermal paste and my hot end mounts (Petsfang) are very open allowing maximum cooling which eliminates heat creep. Concerning the likelihood of PETG peeling off the tray you should not have an issue with PETG if anything when printing on a PEI sheet PETG the problem is having it stick to much and you need to spray PEI with Windex to reduce the stick.
To get the best help with printing planes join rcgroups where you will even find quite a few free planes you may print
F86 the suggested EDF and motor are no longer available what can we substitute the edf with? https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-3553-1800-90mm-edf-brushless-fan-motor.html06.6.19 at 18:44 in reply to: The ultimate filament that is heat resistant to 115c BigRep PRO HT #208510
Tested BigRep Pro HT and it works left parts in a car in full Florida sun all day. The only downside is the cost it is very expensive. If using PLA filament I found the ones that have 3d850 natureworks resin to be the best but still require special handling and cannot sit in a car in full sun ]21.1.19 at 22:27 in reply to: Input needed by a manufacturer to make a PLA filament for printing RC planes #58433
correction 1kg rolls 2.2 lbs19.1.19 at 16:49 in reply to: Is there any interest in a PLA filament that can take higher temps? #58374
No not the same stuff I am working with a manufacture to formulate a PLA filament there will be some R&D and then a 1 day run of the filament.10.7.18 at 15:36 in reply to: 2 files F4U_fuselage_02_v11 and F4U_fuselage_02_v11temp which one is the correct #35114
On my download F4U_fuselage_02_v11temp was the newer file so printed that one so still not sure which is correct05.7.18 at 16:14 in reply to: 2 files F4U_fuselage_02_v11 and F4U_fuselage_02_v11temp which one is the correct #34683
NO never answered SUPPORT IS WORTHLESS still waiting.
I will not buy another plane from these guys. No support, forum search does not work which is ridiculous.
MK3 With Linear Advance S3D settings
the prints have a very tiny z seam and almost no stringing. Coast and nozzle wipes are not needed. accelerations, feed rates and retract is tuned. if using a MK3 with the latest firmware the gcode script assures the PINDA temp is spot on for a perfect first layer by cooling or heating the PINDA probe
All u may have to do is tweak the multiplier for your specific printer to get the weight of the part spot on.
Did you figure out how to print Fuselage 03 on the corsair?
19.5.18 at 16:29 in reply to: F4U need help printing the F4U_fuselage_03 section #3299212.5.18 at 22:12 in reply to: Help Odd lines sticking out of spitfire or would you call them continuous zits? #32697
- This reply was modified 2 years, 4 months ago by artp.
Is this what they call z-seam?12.5.18 at 22:00 in reply to: Help Odd lines sticking out of spitfire or would you call them continuous zits? #32695
I dont think the artifact is retraction because if i rotate the model the line will move to a different place. if printed in the default position for the longer nose it goes straight up the seam on the bottom and almost disapears
the current gcode files do not take advantage of the MK3 new hardware and firmware example linear advance
Here is the results I found at 114f 2 hours in a water bath slowly started to anneal the PLA with no deformity.
I also found that there is no real difference between expensive Raptor HTPLA and cheap ZYLtech PLA both act the same before and after the water bath.
how did you get rid of the air brake holes?