bravo7

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  • in reply to: PT-17 #1399055
    Avatarbravo7
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    Looks like it is thick cloud at the moment – hard to see 🙂

    in reply to: Very easy way to remove white CA "clouds" #1399054
    Avatarbravo7
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    Baby oil or similar usually removes it.

    in reply to: Focke-Wulf Ta 152 H #1399047
    Avatarbravo7
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    An optional undercarriage would be nice too 😉

    in reply to: Stearman ESC location #58462
    Avatarbravo7
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    Nice pics and info.

    Was the CoG 80mm back from the bottom wings leading edge?

    in reply to: 1,6 meter Stearman #34252
    Avatarbravo7
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    How did the maiden go? and video / pics?

    in reply to: 1,6 meter Stearman #32901
    Avatarbravo7
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    Looks beautiful, did you simply scale up the parts or had you to do other structural changes?

    in reply to: Anyone tried a Creality CR-10? #32451
    Avatarbravo7
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    I have not owned the Prusa i3 Mk2 but do have a Cr-10s. If your sole reason for buying a CR-10s is because your Prusa has not been reliable and has broken down I would think again. Whilst the Cr-10s is a good printer I would doubt it is more reliable than the Prusa, also the Creality machines in my opinion require a lot more work to keep them working well. If I were you I would be making contact directly with Prusa again and asking where the parts are 😉

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 1 month ago by Avatarbravo7.
    in reply to: Anyone tried a Creality CR-10? #31878
    Avatarbravo7
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    A good way to test for stringing that does not waste a lot of filament is this little test piece. It prints quickly and you can print lots of them until you get the settings just right.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2219103

    Avatarbravo7
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    This one is being released by a competitor of 3Dlab so I guess it will not be on the 3DLab list anytime soon 😉

    in reply to: Anyone tried a Creality CR-10? #31766
    Avatarbravo7
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    One other thought – Many Creality machines bought recently have a board with a capacitor that is not correct. It causes nozzle temperature variations that affect printing. The simple check is to switch the machine on from cold, do not select any heating and watch the temperature readings. If they ar fluctuationg between several degres quickly then chances are you have got a faulty board.

    Here is a video showing the problem:

    More info here and a link to a DIY fix.

    CR-10S V2.0/V2.1 Temperature Repair

    in reply to: Anyone tried a Creality CR-10? #31764
    Avatarbravo7
    Participant

    There is no way of knowing the nozzle size that Creality throw into the spares pack. Some have reported them being 0.3mm and soem as 0.4mm. When my original nozzle went bad I added the spare and had some printing difficulties which went away after I put a new 0.4mm in.

    in reply to: Anyone tried a Creality CR-10? #31642
    Avatarbravo7
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    Printing PETG at 255 could certainly have melted the PTFE or damaged the tube as I believe the limit for PTFE is about 230C. If the tube is damaged by heat you can remove it and cut off the end square, then put it back in, making sure that the end goes all the way down to butt up against the hotend chamber. Google for YT videos on removing the tube.

    in reply to: Anyone tried a Creality CR-10? #31576
    Avatarbravo7
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    the extruder continues to move correctly but not enough filament is extruded.

    Does the extruder skip? if so then there is a partial blockage in the hot end and the extruder cannot push out the required amount of filament. Amonsgt other causes this can happen if the Bowden tube is damaged inside the extruder, or the tube is not fully down into the heat chamber in the CR-10 hotend.

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 1 month ago by Avatarbravo7.
    Avatarbravo7
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    You should pioneer this method and report back 😉

    in reply to: Trailing edge warping qtrainer #31574
    Avatarbravo7
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    At higher bed temps the wing part on the bed can deform due to heat and the weight on it as the print gets higher. Try a low temp for the bed if you have not already done so. I printed some of the wing parts for the Stearman at 40C with no problems, but I did use a brim which had no gap between it and the part and also used 3Dlac spray.

    One other thing – are there any draughts in the room? An open window or door with cold air coming in?

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 71 total)