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Increasing the thickness is going to increase the weight. If you are already 10% over weight it will get worse. However…the weights given are a guideline. Different filaments will come out different weights even when printed the same so I wouldn’t worry about it. So long as you balance the plane properly and have enough power it will fly just fine.
The motor is the DYS BE4215 650Kv
I think I found a better motor…I have a couple on order and am waiting for them to arrive. But the stats on it are a lot closer to the original AX motor that 3dLabPrint reccomends:
Arg…forums are acting up again…
Is this working now?
Been having problems posting to the forum lately so some of my updates haven’t been posted. As it turns out I figured out how to fix the issue…the 9×7.5 and 9.6 props I had been trying are too much for the motor to turn. 9×6 was pulling 29 amps and it looks like the motor specs out at about 22 amps. I tried the recommended 9.5 prop and that too is too much for the motor. I ended up with a 9×4.5 prop with the startup speed on the ESC set to “plane middle”. I haven’t yet had a chance to fly the plane so I don’t know if it is going to be able to keep up with the nitro planes with that much smaller of a prop. At any rate I’ve come to the conclusion that the Racerstar 3508 700kv motor is just a crappy motor. I have found what too me looks like a motor as good as the 3dLabPrint recommended AX-4008-620KV motor but unfortunately it is nearly twice the cost…I think I’m just going to have to bite the bullet and start buying more expensive motors 🙁
Well the motor specs say it is rated for up to a 15×5 prop…but I can only guess that the specs are written for a multi-rotor copter which has 3 or more additional motors also providing lift and thrust for the vehicle. Because it can’t even turn a 9×6 prop. I dropped down to a 9×4.5 and changed the startup speed to medium and now the motor can throttle up properly…I just hope it will be as fast at 700kv with a 9×4.5 prop as my old 620kv motor was with a 9×7.5 prop.
That is a 9×6 prop. I have not measured the RPM.
Here is the issue I am having:
Well it wasn’t the amps the motor was pulling that is the problem…I bought an 80 amp ESC and tried that and still have the same problem with the motor stalling out and squealing at 90% throttle. We tested the amp draw and found out it is only pulling 29 amps. I’ve tried all the suggestions I could find for troubleshooting my ESCs and nothing has worked. Both of the Racestar motors I bought are having the same problem…I’m starting to think the motors themselves are just no good.05.7.19 at 21:48 in reply to: Problem with the AX 4008Q 620KV motor on HK. What is the alternative? #301876
I was also not able to get the ax 4008 so i ordered tarot 4006 620kv, i’ll try it with various props and 6s lipo in p51 and let you know the results.
Regarding the link above: I know banggood very well for couple of years. Good eshop, can recommend.
Did you get this motor to work? The mounting screw holes look like they won’t match up with any of the motor mounts for the plane.
Just a FYI…the recommended 700kv motor for this plane needs a higher amp then what 3dLabPrint usually recommends. 3dLabPrint recommends a 25amp ESC for the combat setup on the Spitfire MK XIV with the 620kv motor and 6s battery pack. I was using a 40amp ESC with the 700kv motor and a 6s battery and the ESC kept failing at 3/4ths throttle and above. I have a couple of 80amp ESCs on the way so hopefully I’ll have my friend’s F-4U and my P-51 flying in a few days with the new ESCs.
I ran into a bit of an issue…the indentations for the screws that hold the motor mount in place are too far forward on this plane with the long nose. As a result the larger diameter motors can’t sit flush against the motor mount block. I’m going to try adding some 2-3mm spacers between the motor mount and the motor. That should move the motor far enough away to get the correct angle from the motor mount block. I’m just hoping it isn’t too far away though otherwise getting the spinner to fit properly will be a problem.
So we tried to maiden fly the F4U this past weekend. Unfortunately we had some issues that lead to crashes. Fortunately nothing too serious and it will be easy to fix. So here’s what I learned from those attempts:
1) The motor is not angled and off-set to compensate for the motor’s torque. So torque roll is going to be somewhat of a problem. Hopefully someone comes up with a new motor mount to fix the issue.
2) To get the proper CG on the plane the battery needs to be all the way forward in the nose. The designed mounting position doesn’t work unless you add weight.
3) Glue the rubber band holder into the fuselage.
4) The wing needs to have something hold it in place on the back side to prevent it from sliding side to side and sliding back.
I didn’t see that until after I had already built the tail on this one. I wish I saw the modification to keep the wing from sliding around before I had finished the plane as well. The next one I print will have both options. I found that once I switched to hinges I could just barely make the +/- 9mm movement the instructions called for.