Forum Replies Created
Here is the issue I am having:
Well it wasn’t the amps the motor was pulling that is the problem…I bought an 80 amp ESC and tried that and still have the same problem with the motor stalling out and squealing at 90% throttle. We tested the amp draw and found out it is only pulling 29 amps. I’ve tried all the suggestions I could find for troubleshooting my ESCs and nothing has worked. Both of the Racestar motors I bought are having the same problem…I’m starting to think the motors themselves are just no good.05.7.19 at 21:48 in reply to: Problem with the AX 4008Q 620KV motor on HK. What is the alternative? #301876
I was also not able to get the ax 4008 so i ordered tarot 4006 620kv, i’ll try it with various props and 6s lipo in p51 and let you know the results.
Regarding the link above: I know banggood very well for couple of years. Good eshop, can recommend.
Did you get this motor to work? The mounting screw holes look like they won’t match up with any of the motor mounts for the plane.
Just a FYI…the recommended 700kv motor for this plane needs a higher amp then what 3dLabPrint usually recommends. 3dLabPrint recommends a 25amp ESC for the combat setup on the Spitfire MK XIV with the 620kv motor and 6s battery pack. I was using a 40amp ESC with the 700kv motor and a 6s battery and the ESC kept failing at 3/4ths throttle and above. I have a couple of 80amp ESCs on the way so hopefully I’ll have my friend’s F-4U and my P-51 flying in a few days with the new ESCs.
I ran into a bit of an issue…the indentations for the screws that hold the motor mount in place are too far forward on this plane with the long nose. As a result the larger diameter motors can’t sit flush against the motor mount block. I’m going to try adding some 2-3mm spacers between the motor mount and the motor. That should move the motor far enough away to get the correct angle from the motor mount block. I’m just hoping it isn’t too far away though otherwise getting the spinner to fit properly will be a problem.
So we tried to maiden fly the F4U this past weekend. Unfortunately we had some issues that lead to crashes. Fortunately nothing too serious and it will be easy to fix. So here’s what I learned from those attempts:
1) The motor is not angled and off-set to compensate for the motor’s torque. So torque roll is going to be somewhat of a problem. Hopefully someone comes up with a new motor mount to fix the issue.
2) To get the proper CG on the plane the battery needs to be all the way forward in the nose. The designed mounting position doesn’t work unless you add weight.
3) Glue the rubber band holder into the fuselage.
4) The wing needs to have something hold it in place on the back side to prevent it from sliding side to side and sliding back.
I didn’t see that until after I had already built the tail on this one. I wish I saw the modification to keep the wing from sliding around before I had finished the plane as well. The next one I print will have both options. I found that once I switched to hinges I could just barely make the +/- 9mm movement the instructions called for.
What is everyone using to hold the cowl on? I tried some small 2-56 screws but it was a real pain in the but to get them lined up every time I took off the cowl. This past time the screw hole split on the layer. Currently I’m planning on just gluing on the cowl like I did with the motor mount on my Spitfire MK XVI rather than risk the screws de-laminating layers.
That is usually a retraction setting that needs a little more refinement. Most people just ignore it if it is very light.
Update on my build…Printing the connecting piece in PETG for the left and right elevator was a mistake. There was much too much flex and the right side elevator would barely move. I removed the elevator, dug out all of the fabric hinge that I could, and removed the PETG connector. I then cut a new connecting piece out of 1/16″ thick carbon fiber and replaced the hinge material with nylon hinges. The elevator moves great now! I am concerned I may not get enough servo throw but I won’t know that until we fly it. I think I can get enough for the +/- 7mm but I’m thinking that isn’t going to be enough throw.
I got a lot of that with other planes before I switched out my hot end to the E3D V6. But I found if I changed the orientation of the model that helped a lot. Basically the retraction is happening at the narrowest part of the model so if the settings are really good then things like that happen.
I found out another nice thing about this bed the other night. I’m in the middle of doing an AM8 conversion on my printer and am printing the parts in ABS. This bed gets up to 110C without insulation! I’m still using my first Ultrabase with a glue stick as it is working great like that. I’ll switch to my new replacement Ultrabase when I build the new AM8 frame.
Just finished assembling the tail section last night. I suggest anyone building this model to use the coroplast option instead of the printed option and move the control horn back. On the printed version the control horn is in my opinion just a bit too close to the end of the fuselage where the control wire comes out. Downward travel is a bit limited due to this. Also I would suggest getting some thick music wire or something metal to make the U bracket to join the 2 sides of the elevator. The printed bracket flexes just a bit too much.
I’ve been using PLA+ instead of regular PLA. So far I haven’t had it warp yet. It seems painting the planes helps too. My one PLA plane still flying only has a slight warp on the wing but I also keep a pretty close eye on it to make sure I don’t leave it in the sun or a hot car.