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There were a couple people including myself asking about this in one of the main threads. I believe he was going to look into it if there was enough interest.
Yeah Gary the screw should pull the two props together In fact I had to adjust the htness of the screw and loosen it a little bit to let the props spin easier and have less friction.
The parts failing could be a couple of things, are you using the recommended temps for those parts? Higher temps is what you will want, since it will melt together better.
That being said, Ulf, in theory if the shaft was printed horizontally it would be stronger do to the layout of the layers, though it would be harder to get a good finished and balanced shaft that way if you had to use supports.
We had the battery in the back, but i had pretty light battery’s from my planes, so that might have had something to do with it. Also, we had the little printed people on the front, so that probably contributed to it as well.
We had a good time, thanks for creating it!
So we ran the boat last week, overall it went pretty well.
It was a little slower than I thought it might be – every time the boat would start to plane up, the nose would drop back into the water again, so it could not continue accelerating. We were running 3S lipo batteries with the recommended motor and ESC.
To try to get a little more speed, we ran two 3s Lipo batteries in series – we put it in the canal, and my Dad went to full throttle. I think with that setup the RPM’s get close to about 11,000. Suffice it to say, the prop blades blew right off the hub, was obviously too much power.
Since I brought spares I managed to replace the propellers and get it back in the water. However, we noticed after some more running we must have hit something in the canal, there was a hole in the front of the hull. A little clear packing tape took care of that.
overall had a lot of fun running the boat – made my dad happy, spent a good afternoon running it in the canal behind their house.
I’ll let you know how it works out – going down there this weekend to try it out. 🙂
I think it is fine – I will look at the STL and see if they have a gap, but i have everything together and epoxied to it is water tight. Tested it in the bathtub and no leaks. All I need to do is get my daughter to finish painting the little driver figures she designed in Tinkercad so i can glue them on.
I’m building it for my dad, he was diagnosed with cancer, and they had to sell their boat, which they named after my daughter. I have some vinyl stickers coming with the boat name printed, along with the drivers (Which are the family members) it should make a nice present for him.
I have however gotten the vast majority of the boat assembled and it looks great! Just need some 4mm bullet connectors and a coat of XTC-3D to get it in the water.
Oh and I have a minor failure printing flexible filament… I will need to play with that more 🙂
Thanks for your time as always Ulf!
I’m still seeing the issue of the internal ribs of some of the Cruiser parts not contacting the outside I just checked in S3d and I can clearly see in the 3d rendering of the preview that there is a generated gap in the g-code.
I’m kinda at a loss – the printer accurately prints this gap perfectly. I guess I could up the extrusion multiplier but that just means i will be printing out of spec – when i turned up extrusion i had some fitment problems in the past.
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I’ve been trying to get my easymax flying well, soon as I do I am going to give this plane a go. Do you have any ideas for FPV cameras in the nose or anything like that?
Mike23.11.18 at 20:45 in reply to: Easymax – inconsistent list of what's needed, and other points #55551
I agree. I was frustrated a couple times with this design, the nose does not fit the motor well and is fragile, and the tails is also fragile. I have had the fuselage breaks couple times at the split part under the wing. I use the reinforced parts to remove the wing, hilariously I expected the screws to rip out or the wing to snap off but the wing has been crashed a dozen time and no damage. I have been through several fuselages though, able to glue back together a few times but gentle front crashes or hard landings destroy the motor mount and the thin wall around the motor. More superstructure like in the spitfire or other planes would make that a lot stronger, and maybe a more simple cylinder fuselage would work better to. I was surprised that the receiver went between the two fuselage parts, and not inside, did. It realize that until I built it.
I like the plane, just needs a few tweaks to be less fragile.
Mike23.11.18 at 17:32 in reply to: Removable wing and a few modifications of EasyMax by OK-RiMr #55510
I love the wing mod as well. Not sure how the nose mode is supposed to go on, do I cut off part of the fuselage?23.11.18 at 17:25 in reply to: Easymax vertical stabilizer breaks on every landing #55507
Did you solve this? I have broken my tail on soft landings as well. If you have the redesigned part that would be awesome!
I’ll try the extrusion setting. I calibrated the extrusion multiplier by printing out a calibration cube with .45 walls as a spiral vase, as suggested by a Prusa article with the extrusion multiplier set to 1. I then measured several places on the cube and got .5 to .51 thick walls or so. .45/.5 = .9, so that “should” be the extrusion multiplier.
I definitely used a higher extrusion multiplier for those planes, but I did not actually check the setting then. So I can revert back to more extrusion and give it a go.
I think the problem, potentially between the boat and the planes, is the ribs / reinforcement in the planes is nearly always perpendicular to the thin wall of the skin. Also, in the parts I am holding in my hand at the moment from my easymax, the inside rib is double walled, allowing the printer to come along and do the outer wall, loop in and do the rib and loop back out to continue the wall, all as one continuous extrusion.
In fact, whenI had 2 perimeters, such as on the bas and top, all of the ribs were printed properly. I guess sine I am having a tricky time with this part I cold add extrusion, and if that does not work, set it for two perimeters all the way up.
Please don’t read any of that as criticism – the boat is pretty awesome, I’ll eventually get it figured out, and thank you so much for your help thus far – very much appreciated!
Right now I am going to get some gears and bearing ready to go 🙂
Also I am not cetain if my workflow is correct here – I think Simplify 3d’s way of switching printer settings leaves a lot to be desired.
Here is what I do.
I have a profile for my Prusa printer. I load up the factory files of the objects that are provided, and write down the settings for perimeters, layer heights, and start / stop printing heights.
I then select my printer profile, which of course loads all my G-code, and scripts, but overwrites all of the printing settings (Why it does this is beyond me, not like the number of perimeters in an object should depend on my printing profile but whatever) i then manually re-enter the settings like layers, number of perimeters, etc.
This is a giant pain in the but, but has worked for all the ED lab planes and most of the boat parts as well. If there is a better way of doing this i am all ears.
My printer has auto leveling and other features so I have that all as part of my profile so i don’t have to add them every time.
uploaded the factory files to the hull 5 mike folder. There are two, the first one failed, the 2nd one I tweaked some settings and it was still going to fail so i stopped it.
hull 6 had the same problem but I could glue the ribs to the side.
What it looks like is the ribs are at such an angle they are not being considered part of the exterior hull, they are being sliced and printed as separate pieces. Where there is more than one perimeter they are tied together but as soon as we get to the single wall extrusions the reinforcement ribs are not attached to the hull in all cases.