thoemse

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 125 total)
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  • in reply to: Extrusion multiplier at 0.7?!? #1264264
    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    If you haver to go down to 0.7 your extrusion steps are not calibrated.

    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    One just should’t use PETG on these planes. :p
    My easymax desintegrated midair with the motor section accelerationg away without the rest of the plane. 😀
    That being said the screws were still holding the wing when I picked up tjhe pieces. M4 silicone screws are perfectly fine.

    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    Mine needed a bit of sanding because I overextruded a bit but they fit fine after that.

    in reply to: HowTo: clear pushrod ducts #58237
    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    Why did I not think of this. I allways heated a rod up with a lighter – it is tedious work.

    Thank you so much!

    in reply to: Glue PETG? #58236
    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    CA. I had a PETG easymax myself and I can tell you that the flex is pretty damn bad on this plane. The wing is not the problem. The fuselage is. Especially the part that is connecting to the wing.

    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    Ic this is the same stuff that gets spammed on the other forums (philament PLA) then show us some facts and a filament data sheet.
    If it can deliver 100 degs without annealing and at PLA weight (same density) yes we sure are interested.

    in reply to: Help with printing with PETG #58055
    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    It really depends on your PETG brand. I had rolls I had to print at 240 degrees and I have a roll that will start to bubble (no it’s not water in the filament) at 220 degrees.

    I flew PETG planes. It is preoblematic because of the flex. It is doable but you will have to reinforce some parts. I am still testing HT PLA and I printed my first ABS plane lately and successfully maidened it. ABS seems to be a winner but it is really hard to print it singlewall. Don’t even think about it without enclosure.

    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    Great! I bought the ME 109 because of your upgrade and I managed to buy the wrong base model. 🙂
    Printing the T wing right now. Printed your upgrade fuse allready and I love how rigid it is!

    in reply to: Where to buy pushrod wire? #56108
    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    lindinger or schweighofer
    Both are austrian but they send EU wide.

    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    Not sure on the motor mount but definatly not for the spinner. It ried printing the Zivko Edge spinner in PETG once. Centrifugal forces make it flex outwards once you spool up. It flexes too much.

    For the motor mount I’s suggest to use HTPLA and anneal that. Then it is harder and has better thermal properties than PETG.

    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    I finished assembling the wing and cut a M4 thread. I went for M4 because that fits right into the openings of Richards design. I also wanted to leave myself the option to go M5 if I mess it up.

    The M4 nylon screws give me a lot of confidence. I am positive that it holds. Now I hope that the glue joints hold in flight. I printed it in PETG. I made good experience with it before but the wingspan is quite big and the glue joints rather small.
    I’ll report back how it went.

    The design addition of Richard is fantastic either way.

    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    You need three servos. Prop – they are simply choices. I got the 11/6. Works with the 1100kv motor.
    30A or 40A – I think both is viable. Personally I use a 40A to be on the safe side.

    It gets better though. They sell a FPV conversion. None of these props will fit if you go FPV because the FPV arm is right above the prop and not enough clearance. You’d have to swap to a smaller prop and go 4S but it is not mentioned anywhere.

    in reply to: Merge part before printing #55009
    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    Search the forum. It’S been discussed a few times. I got a Z 370mm delta printer myself and did it quite often. Especially on a delta without moving bed it works well.

    Basically all you need to do is align the parts in simplify3d.
    There is a vid tutorial showing how to separate meshes to remove the alignment tabs but you don’t really have to do this. Just align them right and print. It’s as easy as that.

    View post on imgur.com

    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    Thanks a lot. I will do that.
    The tail fin is really filigrane indeed. Maybe I reinforce it with a bit of epoxy.
    For the belly I might use glass fibre supported tape I use for pretty much anything. That or also a fine layer of epoxy. It’s all weight in the end but if it doesn’t survive a landing its not very useful either.

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by Avatarthoemse.
    Avatarthoemse
    Participant

    I am just printing an easymax with these modifications. I am almost finished (fuselage and Tail are ready including electronics – printing the wing right now.
    What I don’t get is how this is supposed to be screwed together with nylon screws. There is no counter nut or a way to place one. Simply screwing a nylon nut into the hull doesn’t inspire me with much confidence. Anyone can help me here and suggest how to do it right. I saw the video of the designer of this mod but I don’t get how this is supposed to hold.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 125 total)